Our life in the Caribbean

Johanna

N 11° 59.975', W 61° 45.859'

We have been enjoying our life here in the Caribbean so much, that I haven't had time to write. Not really, that was a lie. I have only been writing our blog in Finnish. No one reads this blog, so it's kind of frustrating to write. But I also know, that if I don't write anything, then for sure no one is going to be interested of this blog. When I get this blog up to date, I just might have more interest updating it in the future. At least that's my intention. Even though I know that my non-Finnish friends know how to use Google translator for the Finnish blog.

I'l tell you briefly what we have been up to since January. 

Most of the people we know, try to see as many islands and anchorages as possible. We also like to see new places, but we also like to take it easy. We feel like if you don't stay at least a week in a place, you don't really get to know the place.

We spent one and half months in Martinique, but we did see quite a few anchorages. We also had very big problems to get our dear old CQR to get a grip on the bottom. I'll get back to this later.

We kind of had a dead-line to go to Sint Maarten. A friend of mine, who works on a cargo ship, brought us a bunch of stuff from Finland. The only island we visited betweeen Martinique and Sint maarten was Dominica.

All the countries in the world have different procedures to check in and out of the country. Dominica had it easy. We were able to clear in and out at the same time, as long as we stay maximum 14 days. Well, we stayd exactly 14 days. We enjoyd Dominica a lot. It's maybe the poorest and less developed country of the Lesser Antilles, but I think the people were the friendliest we have met so far. The reason they are less developed is that there is no room to expand the airport. They can not build a runway long enough for the big jets. This keeps the big tourist crowds on the other islands. 

We took a rain forest tour in Dominica. This is whrere Dominica wins. There are not too many tourists which means the island is not too spoiled. Here you can really enjoy the nature.

We were planning on sailing to Guadaloupe, but we wanted to go through it. The bridge in the middle of the butterfly island was broken. This make our decision easy. We'll skip it.

I wanted to go to Antigua a lot. I have very fond memories of it being the first land fall after crossing the Atlantic in 1999. For a couple of reasons we had to skip it. One was the direction of the wind, the next one was the dead-line to get our stuff in Sint Maarten and the last one was that we had a bit of a head cold. So when our time was up in Dominica we just sailed straight to Sint Maarten. 

We achored in Simpson Bay lagoon. It was nice to be out the ocean swell. But everything have at least two sides. The bad side here was that the water was quite dirty.

At this time our plan was to sail to Cuba and after that head for the ABCs for the hurricane season. It was already kind of late in the season so we had to consider our plans again. The result was that we'll head down to Grenada and Trinidad for the summer. 

We ended up staying in the Lagoon for almost two months. In this time we did quite a bit of shopping. Our most important new items were a new anchor and a new outboard motor for the dinghy.

We had had enough problems with our old CQR. CQR is a good anchor when the bottom is nice and sandy. It seems that all the bays just have more and more growth in the bottom and it can not dig in. We had read good reviews on Rocna, but there was no way we could fit an anchor with a roll bar in our bow. We went for the newer model and chose Rocna Vulcan. It's been about six months and so far we are very happy with it.

The bottom of the boat had become terrible in the lagoon. We didn't realize it until we hoisted our anchor and headed out. We thought that the antifouling we applied in the Canaries would be a bit better. It was pretty much waste of money. Our boat speed was terrible and we could not sail anywhere near the wind. We had made plans to sail to Guadaloupe, but there was no way to make it. We ended up in the lee of St. Kitts & Nevis. We stopped for one night in a very rolly anchorage in the northern end of St. Kitts. When we anchored when it was dark already and we continued our way after breakfast. We never went ashore.

Next we tried to get to Dominica. There was no way with our dirty bottom to aim that high. The next island was Martinique. We really had hard time heading there. If you have never experienced a really dirty bottom, you won't understand. We had the same thing in the Canaries. If our speed should be 5 knots, it's 3 knots.The main problem is not the speed. We are not in a hurry The problem is that the boat looses all it's features. A sailboat needs to maintain certain speed for the keel and everything to work like they are supposed to work to be able to beat to the wind.

We finally fought our way back to Martinique. There we started to clean the underwater growth. It was hard work and nearly impossible without any diving gear, I have tried scuba diving once in Thailand, almost 15 years ago. Timo has never even tried it. In the Canaries we had once seen one of our Finnish friends to clean the bottom of his boat with a hookah diving system. Now, a year later, we started stuyding this option. This seemed like a perfect solution for us. 

When we decided to head south our plan was to spend the most active months of the hurricane season in Trinidad.  It was a sum of many things that we ended up staying in Grenada for the whole summer season. There is still one more month left of the hurricane season, y the chances are getting smaller every day. We had one close call when hurricane Matthew came this way. It was not a hurricane yet, but he was given a name right before hitting the Lesser Antilles. It first looked that it was coming straight at us, but then it took a bit notherly route. We never experiences winds more than 30 knots. The center went over Martinique, but lucky for us it didn't have it strenght yet. Later this same hurricane hit Haiti very hard. It left total devastation on it's path there. Whole towns were distroyed and at least 1000 people died.

We still have a few things to do here in Grenada. We'll be going to a boatyard later this week. We have two important things to get done. One is painting a new antifouling that would actually keep some growth away. An other thing is something we could not do in the Canaries where we did all the other major refits. We are getting our 26 year old teak in the cockpit redone. We could not do this in the Canaries, because it was illegal to import any teak into the islands.

After this work has been done it's already pretty safe to start travelling back north. A lot of boats have left already. Actually a lot of people stay on the northern islands for the hurricane season. It's not a death sentance, if you stay there. It's just basic math, the propability of a big storm gets smaller the further south you go. Trinidad is supposed to be out of the hurricane area, Grenada is right on the edge. The last hurricane Grenada got was in 2004 but it was very devastating.  They say that 90 percent of the building had some damage. They are still collection money for some of the schools and churches that got hit hard.

When we are ready to head north in a couple of weeks, the risk to get hit by a hurricane is close to zero.

I've made this promise before, but I'll do it again. This time I mean it. I promise to write you more often.

Back in the EU

Johanna

N 14° 26.374', W 60° 53.104'

Lucky for us this is only an Overseas Department of France and we are not back on the continent of Europe.

But first I'll write something about our visit to Bridgetown, Barbados.

I'm not really a beach person, but I sure like to looking at one. 

There were plenty of these places in town where we could tie our dinghy.

I know that there comes a time when we have to take our dinghy to the beach, we even have wheels in the dinghy for that. Lucky for us they had these landings. because there was quite a large swell which would have made it very difficult (and wet) to land on the beach.

For some reason I seem to be unable to take any pictures of the streets, only of the water.

The view to the other direction.

After about two weeks it was time to change scenery and we sailed to Martinique.

Clearing in and out on the French islands is very easy. We go into a marina office and fill out a form on a computer and then print it out. Staff stamps it and we are all done. The most difficult part is using a French keyboard. If you've ever used one, you know what I'm talking about.

When we arrived in Le marin, we achored in a nice spot very near the dinghy landings. It also showed on the chart that it was forbidden to anchor in that spot, but since there were other boat too , we did it anyways. Today we had to move, because they are having a sail race there tomorrow. No problem, we moved to the anchorage in Sainte-Anne. We stay here over the weekend and then we return, maybe to the same place. The water in Le Marin is not very clear and there are also so many boats that I don't believe the water is very clean. Here the water is clear and we can swim again. We kind of got to used to swimming already in Barbados.

We don't know if the race tomorrow is on these traditional boats or something else. When we were told to move, Timo was also handed two sheets of paper about it, but all the text is in French...

Crossing the Atlantic Ocean

Johanna

N 13° 5.430', W 59° 37.049'

When we were leaving Mindelo, the weather forecast for a week showed that is was going to be sailing with the wind astern. We rigged our two poles already while in the dock. The new cutter jib is either on or off, but the size of genoa can also be adjusted even with the pole attached to it.

We actually bought this new cutter sail with furling system to get better performance on the beat. Now we used it for the first time and it was on a 2000 miles run.

We don't have sat phone (well tecnically we do, but we haven't bought a sim card, yet). We try to manage with the SBB-radio as long as possible. We used it a lot on the European coast. Back then our winlink email worked very well and we used it to get GRIB-files and to update our blog. Now we couldn't get good enough connections for email. We had to try something new. Every night we tuned our radio to receive weather fax. Some nights we got really clear pictures, some night we got nothing. We still don't know the reason why the quality of the reception changed so much.

I would say this is a pretty good picture even though we also had some that were much more clear. This is anyway clear enough to read. 

On this leg I didn't even try fishing. There was so much of this Sargassum that it would have fouled my lure and line instantly.

This guy (and I don't mean my husband) scared me in the middle of a night watch. This particular flying fish landed on top of our pilot house right above my head and started to make a real racket up there when it tried to find it's way back to the water. In the morning Timo threw it away, it was not fresh anymore so we couldn't even put in on the skillet.

Our life on the water was very easy. We ate, slept and kept watch. We did not have any "written" watch system. We did what felt the best at the moment. During the first few nights we took 2-3 hour turns, in the end the longest night watch was 6 hours. When it's just the two of us, life is very simple. On most days we had a warm meal, on some days we did not feel like it. Still we discovered some new dishes. We replaced all pasta with cous-cous, it's was so much easier to prepare. Other new favorite included tuna from a can rolled into a tortilla with various spices and other incredients such olives and dried tomatos.

Here I am just taking things easy. We have some very good lee clothes for some of our bunks. When we really slept we were in one of those. But when relaxing during the day we used our regular bunk for that, (we still did have some pillows stuffed under the side of the mattress). One thing in this picture is very unusual. I have a paperback in my hand. We read all our novels as e-books, so this does not happen very ofter. I was trying to learn about corrosion on boats, and, well, fell a sleep after 10 minures. The same thing happened on an other day when I took my French text book and tried to go over some basic words for the French islands

Since we have a pilot house, we keep watch comfortably inside our saloon. In the colder climates it's nice and warm inside. Now that we are in the tropics it's nice and cool. Well, the temperature does rise, but at least we are out of the sun. We can easily see to all directions with our own eys so we don't really need the radar to see other vessels. During the night we kept the radar on to see approaching squalls.

Some rain shower making an approach, Some only rained a little, some shifted the wind and some made major increase in the wind speed. Usually we just had to close our companionway to prevent the rain coming inside and after 15 minutes everything was back to normal.

Our windwane was for sure the hardest working crew member on this passage. It practically steered the whole way. We also have an hydraulic autopilot, but it takes a lot of juice from the battery. Windwane works for almost free, sometimes it wants some WD-40.

Our trip from Cape Verde took 16 days and we arrived on Barbados on New Years Day. What a way to start a new year!

Mindelo, Cabo Verde

Johanna

N 16° 53.241', W 24° 59.443'

Sailing from the Canaries to Cabo Verde was quite uneventful. We had very light winds all the way, during the last two days we even had to motor some hours.

I tried to catch some fish, but all I got was some seaweed, there was a lot of it.

I know we can't trust the charts, but I was still expecting to see some light when we were approching Mindelo in total darkness. You can see the lighthouse on top of this island, but there definately was no light flashing from it.

We have enjoyed Mindelo. This place has some very good restaurants. To be honest, we haven't found anything else than good restaurant. The prices are also much lower than in the Canaries.

It's no wonder that all the fish in the restaurats is very fresh since during the day there is fresh fish for sale around every corner.

Tomorrow we are going to buy fresh fruit from this market for our next leg.

We are planning on leaving tomorrow and we are heading for Barbados. If the winds don't agree with this, we'll just change our plans and pick an other island.

It's about 2000 nautical miles from here to Barbados. We expect to spend at least two weeks on the way, it could also take three weeks.

You can follow us on our website. The map and our last position should be updated via Spot.

When we finally arrive in the Caribbean it's going to be year 2016 already. So we wish you all very happy holidays!

Atlantic Ocean, here we come!

Johanna

N 28° 0.442', W 16° 39.628'

Today is the day we have been waiting for a long time.

We are now heading to Cape Verde. If for some reason the winds are not favorable, we might change our plans and head straingt to the Caribbean.

Today Tenerife doesn't look so nice. I hope we find the sun soon.

Atlantic Ocean, almost there, we can't wait!

Johanna

N 28° 0.442', W 16° 39.628'

I haven't forgotten  you all, but, well, I've been busy. Sorry about that. I promise I'll make it up in the near future. 

It's been a long almost two years in the Canaries. The Canaries are not a bad place to be, but we have just been here long enough. We left Finland to go sailing and we haven't done that much here.

We haven't set the excact date when we leave, but it's in the very near future.

Before we left Las Palmas we took care of the bottom. Now "Iiris" behaves like she's supposed to behave. It was kind of funny, how deffirent it was to manouver her with the dirty bottom.

Here we are testing our new furling system for the gennaker. The sail is not new, but we exchanged the sock for the furler.

We have already been provisioning for the past two months. When ever we have had a rental car for some reason, I've been bringing home some cans. Last week we did an inventory. We have plenty of food, we'd survive for much longer time than just across the Atlantic. Anyway we'll be still buying some more. We know that the stores in the Caribbean are more expensive and don't always have the things we might want.

Last summer I ordered me a Sailrite sawing machine, I hadn't had the time to power it up yet. 

My mother came to see us before we go. With her mental support I set up the machine and did my first stiches on it. We didn't quite have the materials we needed so I'll continue by myself sometime, somewhere else.

It was nice to have my mom around for two weeks. We don't plan to visit Finland anytime soon, and the flights to visit us are becoming longer and more complicated. We sailed to La Gomera with my mom. We loved the island. I'm so happy we finally got to see something else than Gran Canaria and Tenerife

We don't miss Finland, but we do like some things that come from Finland. Here we have some rye crispy bread stored for the crossing. And I must tell you, this is not all we have. We also have a lot of other Finnish crispy bread on board. This means we don't need to start baking yet.

We are now in Las Galletas, Tenerife. We'll be doing some last minute things before we set sail for the Caribbean (most likely via Cape Verde).

When we finally set sail (hopefully next week) I hope I have more time to update this blog. At least we'll be checking in with the Spot, so you'll see on the map where we are.

How to install Spinlock endless line clutch

timo

N 28° 7.628', W 15° 25.492'

We needed clutches for our new endless rope furler. Since we have Spinlock XTS clutches, and we like them, we decided to try XTS/M clutches that are designed for endless rope.

Information about this option is quite limited on Spinlock's web pages. We bought a triple XTS/M3 which seems ridiculous for endless rope, and we soon figured out that the middle one is not usable for this. The endless rope only needs two clutches, but we wanted to get the triple for it to look symmetrical to the other side.

When we got the much more expensive clutch than a normal triple, we realized that the only difference for normal triple was the open bullseyes. Very expensive bullseys!

We wanted to make the installation so that we don't have to uninstall the clutches from the deck if we need to change the rope. That is not possible with triple or double because one plastic part cannot be removed when both side fairings are not removed. 

We had also two singles and so we got what we wanted by changing the open bullseyes to single clutches. There went the symmetry.

Next I show how to put endless rope to clutch without uninstalling the clutch from the deck.

Here are the parts for single clutch.

Line must be forced into bullseye.

For example by using screwdriver.

All the bullseyes in endless rope.

Base is installed and insulated with Duralac and sealed with Sikaflex. 

This is the part that makes it impossible to change the endless line without uninstalling the whole clutch for others than singles. The small notches go under the base and can come up only on the sides, not in the middle.

Put that part in place.

Cam assembly comes next.

And the other parts.

Notice that the bolts keeping the clutch together can be assembled both ways.